London FW provides more innovative shapes than New York

Faster than a speeding double-decker bus comes spring 2008 Fashion Week, straight from London. What is London fashion, really, but an eclectic mix of influences from all over the world? While New York may have its sleek, modern lines, London has innovative shapes and a full spectrum of colors. I chose my top three collections from the former site of Fergie’s falling bridge.

Earlier this year, Luella Bartley designed a collection for Target’s GO International line; however, that was only a taste of her delicate knack for piecing things together. Her designs demonstrate outfits using different fabrics and textures, from velvet and taffeta party dresses to fluffy, printed chiffons and cashmere sweaters. Fine prints were evident in blouses, skirts and dresses, but toned down with cream and black basic accents. Each piece was different than the one before it, from a cream-colored wool pea coat to a mint green plaid shift dress. The show also featured high-waist shorts and pleated skirts, shortening the torso but showing just the right amount of leg. A bit of eclectic taste came through with her interesting Batgirl and Batman t-shirts, as well as bat prints on jackets and pants. I’m sure these will be a hot commodity come spring! The Luella line has the possibilities to build a new wardrobe or add special pieces to your existing closet! What better clothes to turn up in for the first day of classes after Easter?

Next on the docket is Matthew Williamson, a London favourite of trendsetters in the States. A performance by Prince opened the extravaganza, which ensured an interesting show to follow, of course. Bohemian shapes and prints on billowing white blouses turned into shimmering metallic tunics as the looks continued on. There were vests and easy, long muumuu dresses, in color combinations and designs resembling those of the Aztecs. In a transition featuring pink to black dip-dyed mini dresses, therein followed an onslaught of blazers and shorts mixed with floaty chiffon pieces. Every edge and detail was taken into consideration, with black and white chevron prints, checkerboards and a warping of the two together. Bold splashes of color in between kept the collection moving. All in all, Matthew Williamson is where to go for the mix of “Pretty Hippie” style with everyday pieces that work. I could see some of his easy dresses traveling well on Spring Break or adding an interesting pop to an outdoor lunch date with friends.

My London eye was then locked on the show from Giles, designed by visionary Giles Deacon. Structured black denim jackets and grey satin dresses started the show, but the shapes quickly became amorphous and interesting. Satins and brocades traipsed past each other; just when I thought I had seen one floral print after another, flowers were stretched out, pixilated and zoomed in on. A strapless satin periwinkle dress stuffed with tightly wrapped tulle is what I’m calling the “cotton candy” dress; hit up http://style.com and see if you agree. I expected the clothes to continue in that style, but everything completely changed again, from the brightest purples to nudes, bronzes and silvers. Laser-sharp trims in the shapes of leaves looked dangerous but were delicately cut from the same shiny satins used earlier. Overall, Giles’ mix of textures is something that must be used in careful moderation. These clothes would be most appropriate where you would want to stand out; perhaps at a gala dinner or awards party, but not your typical black tie!

My heart will always be in New York, but I’m getting well-prepped to look at pictures from the Paris shows next week!

— Hayley Umphrey