Paris Fashion Week: A denim swimsuit says it all

Chances are if you think of the fashion capital of the world, you think Paris. But this season I was sadly disappointed because it did not compare to the greats I second-handedly witnessed in New York, London and Milan. Fashion is art, yes; but fashion is also a business and the clothes must be desirable and wearable for the target customer.

Chanel’s Karl Lagerfeld used light-wash denim in every piece, from little jumpers that you might see on a toddler to wide-leg and high-waist jeans that might be found at a store featuring fashions with “Everyday Low Prices.” There was even a denim swimsuit; if you’ve ever been splashed with a large amount of water while wearing jeans, you know it’s no picnic. Among the slough of red, white and denim came Chanel’s epic little black dresses, though they were anything but; just unflattering and cartoonish, with grommets and Minnie Mouse bows.

Lanvin designer Alber Elbaz featured what looked like strapless and shapeless ruffles; not actual dresses, just fabric wrapped around models. The voluminous, fan-powered gowns provided as much coverage as wearing a large trash bag would, though the dresses came in a rainbow of colors.

Another fashion great, the eternally innovative Yves Saint Laurent, made me feel hopeless for Paris. YSL designer Stefano Pilati showed a collection of oddly-shaped skirts and tops, along with boxy sweatshirt-like cover-ups in gloomy heather grey. If I felt the need to dress sad and winter-y in the spring, I would move back to Seattle!

Maybe my fine-tuned fashion eye is not fully in sync with what is to come for the industry, but I have faith that what I saw wasn’t anything wearable or even conceptually inspiring. I was about to throw in the towel when I found two designers that finally screamed “PARIS!”

A gem among the fashion coal was designer Elie Saab. Known for glittering gold and sparkling silver evening gowns, the designer creates frocks for a fun, girly customer who thrives in the spotlight or on the red-carpet. This spring’s collection featured more casual dresses and cocktail looks than normal, though as I have discussed before, the short, frilly party dress is HUGE for spring. In a palette of bold sea greens, carmine reds, canary yellows and electric blues, Saab made his mark on eveningwear by accentuating everything with black; there were eyefuls of bows, ruffles and trims, all with a hint of pailletes, sequins or beads. Among artsy rose and leaf patterns there were the jaw-dropping sparklers, gowns reminiscent of Art Deco and the flappers that thrived in that movement. The outfits seemed to come to life with each step, even though I was just looking at still images. To say Saab’s designs are simple would be an understatement; they simply flatter a woman’s body and height with the right amount of mixed-media shimmer and glamorous shapeliness. Still drooling from all the glitz, I turned my attention to the innovative Olivier Theyskens for Nina Ricci.

Olivier who? O-lih-vee-ay Tay-skins. After a breathtaking debut in fall 2007, the hard-to-pronounce up-and-comer showed a dripping collection of silk tops and dresses. The theme appeared to be something of a “walk of shame” though the models still looked well-dressed. A plethora of dingy jackets and cardigans adorned each dress or skirt, though each was worn slightly askew. Every outfit also had some kind of feathered scarf or boa, adding a bit more texture to every look. The colors in the collection were delightfully dark; grays, silvers, browns and black, but the shapes and textures were appropriately spring. The gowns were cut on the bias, creating a fluted shape similar to a calla lily. Near the end there was an incredible ball gown that glimmered like it was made from thin strips of shiny aluminum beneath fluttering chiffon. All in all, Nina Ricci clothes are wearable, but not so much that you would see them on everyone. Theyskens should be deemed as the “new underground,” showing off the dirtier side of Paris chic.

From one outrageous glam to one understatedly impure, I found both ends of the spectrum in Paris. Despite initial disappointment, I will keep watching to see how Fashion “Week” comes to a close. In the meantime, don’t forget to take a pretty fall sweater to class; ASU still hasn’t adjusted the indoor temps to the outdoor ones!
— Hayley Umphrey