What’s in a number?

If we are talking double digits, its everything. This is not about your paycheck, the number of anytime minutes you have on your phone or the grade you got on your latest paper; I am also referring not to your mini golf score, but the number you want to be lowest of all, your clothing size.

Clothes used to be personally designed for individuals based on their unique measurements. This was the first “couture,” or custom-made clothing, and was only available to royalty or the wealthy, mainly in Europe. As society progressed, there was no longer much of a need for dramatic full-skirt ball gowns or perfectly fitting fur-trimmed robes. We can thank the Industrial Revolution for size standardization in the mass-production of clothing. It was both practical and cost-effective to manufacture clothes fitting in the size range of small, medium and large. Additionally, clothes became simple and uncomplicated as the workforce required it. People found it easy to approximate their body shape into one of those three categories and dress accordingly; but then, people began to change.

I am not going to delve into body image issues here; how models may or may not perpetuate the “thin is beautiful” mentality is a debate to save for a rainy day. But I will tell you that I know better than to have a few glossy photos affect what I eat, and you should too. In Michelle Lee’s book, Fashion Victim, she unveils a number of industry secrets that she discovered through her immersion in the fashion magazine industry. One of these secrets is what she refers to as “vanity sizing,” a fashion psychology concept which has fascinated me and spurred fitting room experiments of my own.

Sample sizes are 0 and 2; the first production of a design will be made in either of these sizes for the designer to fit on a model and better observe how the garment looks on a body. After the samples (requiring only a small amount of fabric) have been produced, the designer either goes back to the drawing board or sends the design to production for the whole spectrum of sizes. This process sounds like a simple idea, except that every clothing brand bases their respective sizes 0 and 2 off of different measurements and fit models. If you were to go to your closet and do some math, is it safe to say that your flattering size 6 work pants do not equal your favorite size 10 jeans?

Vanity sizing is only one of the many ways that clothing companies have a hold on their consumers. People will, in fact, buy clothing not based on how it fits, but what the number on the size tag is. If you think this is crazy, just remember the last time you convinced yourself that since you just started a workout regimen, you were going to “lose a few pounds.” Therefore, you bought the smaller size before the fact, rather than waiting until you actually could fit into the item. Whether or not the clothes ended up fitting you or not does not matter; the mentality of buying for size rather than fit makes women crazily squeeze themselves into jeans, skirts, dresses and even bras that do not fit them.

While I was shopping for a Homecoming court dress this past weekend, I was disappointed to discover that my size started in the double digits and only went higher. I do not consider myself small, medium or large, I am just Hayley. This experience was my final venture into the land of self-pity, threatening my roommates via text message that I was to eat no more pre-Halloween candy or delicious Ritz crackers and cheese. Once I finally found a dress (a medium, mind you), I returned home; I had achieved the size “average” and was content. After enjoying a few fun-size Kit-Kat bars, I picked up Fashion Victim again and realized that I had fallen prey.

When it comes down to it, sizes do not transfer across clothing designers, departments, stores, states or countries. Designers play to what size you think and hope you are rather to what size you actually are. Stretch fabrics especially enable clothing manufacturers to broaden their range of fit for a particular number size. In addition to selling more clothes, the customer also buys peace of mind with their purchase.

You are not the number that is on your tag! You are but a human, who happens to be wearing clothes which abide by a silly and inaccurate numbering system. From now on I vow to not let the number on the tag affect me; I hope that you will now stand informed and will not let yourself be squeezed into size categories either!

— Hayley Umphrey

Paris Fashion Week: A denim swimsuit says it all

Chances are if you think of the fashion capital of the world, you think Paris. But this season I was sadly disappointed because it did not compare to the greats I second-handedly witnessed in New York, London and Milan. Fashion is art, yes; but fashion is also a business and the clothes must be desirable and wearable for the target customer.

Chanel’s Karl Lagerfeld used light-wash denim in every piece, from little jumpers that you might see on a toddler to wide-leg and high-waist jeans that might be found at a store featuring fashions with “Everyday Low Prices.” There was even a denim swimsuit; if you’ve ever been splashed with a large amount of water while wearing jeans, you know it’s no picnic. Among the slough of red, white and denim came Chanel’s epic little black dresses, though they were anything but; just unflattering and cartoonish, with grommets and Minnie Mouse bows.

Lanvin designer Alber Elbaz featured what looked like strapless and shapeless ruffles; not actual dresses, just fabric wrapped around models. The voluminous, fan-powered gowns provided as much coverage as wearing a large trash bag would, though the dresses came in a rainbow of colors.

Another fashion great, the eternally innovative Yves Saint Laurent, made me feel hopeless for Paris. YSL designer Stefano Pilati showed a collection of oddly-shaped skirts and tops, along with boxy sweatshirt-like cover-ups in gloomy heather grey. If I felt the need to dress sad and winter-y in the spring, I would move back to Seattle!

Maybe my fine-tuned fashion eye is not fully in sync with what is to come for the industry, but I have faith that what I saw wasn’t anything wearable or even conceptually inspiring. I was about to throw in the towel when I found two designers that finally screamed “PARIS!”

A gem among the fashion coal was designer Elie Saab. Known for glittering gold and sparkling silver evening gowns, the designer creates frocks for a fun, girly customer who thrives in the spotlight or on the red-carpet. This spring’s collection featured more casual dresses and cocktail looks than normal, though as I have discussed before, the short, frilly party dress is HUGE for spring. In a palette of bold sea greens, carmine reds, canary yellows and electric blues, Saab made his mark on eveningwear by accentuating everything with black; there were eyefuls of bows, ruffles and trims, all with a hint of pailletes, sequins or beads. Among artsy rose and leaf patterns there were the jaw-dropping sparklers, gowns reminiscent of Art Deco and the flappers that thrived in that movement. The outfits seemed to come to life with each step, even though I was just looking at still images. To say Saab’s designs are simple would be an understatement; they simply flatter a woman’s body and height with the right amount of mixed-media shimmer and glamorous shapeliness. Still drooling from all the glitz, I turned my attention to the innovative Olivier Theyskens for Nina Ricci.

Olivier who? O-lih-vee-ay Tay-skins. After a breathtaking debut in fall 2007, the hard-to-pronounce up-and-comer showed a dripping collection of silk tops and dresses. The theme appeared to be something of a “walk of shame” though the models still looked well-dressed. A plethora of dingy jackets and cardigans adorned each dress or skirt, though each was worn slightly askew. Every outfit also had some kind of feathered scarf or boa, adding a bit more texture to every look. The colors in the collection were delightfully dark; grays, silvers, browns and black, but the shapes and textures were appropriately spring. The gowns were cut on the bias, creating a fluted shape similar to a calla lily. Near the end there was an incredible ball gown that glimmered like it was made from thin strips of shiny aluminum beneath fluttering chiffon. All in all, Nina Ricci clothes are wearable, but not so much that you would see them on everyone. Theyskens should be deemed as the “new underground,” showing off the dirtier side of Paris chic.

From one outrageous glam to one understatedly impure, I found both ends of the spectrum in Paris. Despite initial disappointment, I will keep watching to see how Fashion “Week” comes to a close. In the meantime, don’t forget to take a pretty fall sweater to class; ASU still hasn’t adjusted the indoor temps to the outdoor ones!
— Hayley Umphrey

Spaghetti, espresso and tiramisu can’t compare to Milan’s Dolce, Versace and Prada

Adorning the sunglasses of ASU glamour girls across campus are the logos of Prada, Versace and Dolce and Gabbana. Though the clothes from these luxurious brands may not be financially accessible for you to wear, they are still the greats that we can look to for incredible trends and uncanny visual displays of style. Milan fashion week showed off the spring 2008 lines of these three incredible ready-to-wear collections.

I started with Dolce and Gabbana, where every outfit was truly a work of art. The collection opened with a variety of loose pants and dresses in black or white; it was looking like it would be a typical assortment of basics. But then, the materials changed to billowing, wrapped tulles and elegant brocade prints. Splashes of color gradually emerged, looking literally like the fabrics were adorned with a painter’s brushstrokes. Every piece was different from the one before it, though the colors and prints had an evident flow into one another. The most breathtaking dresses were those of pure fantasy; gathered full-skirt tulle concoctions in chartreuse, ultramarine and mahogany. Barbie’s got nothing on these dark, creampuff gowns with underlying black tulle layers and an asymmetrical bodice. They are so outrageous that you shouldn’t expect to see them in stores anytime soon, but you should definitely dare to dream about making a grand entrance in one!

Versace was next on my list. Donatella has since subdued herself from the over-the top acid neon colors and tiny spandex dresses of 2003, but the line’s over-the-top glamour lingers on. The spring collection started in clingy and shiny nude mini dresses. Belted coats and jackets in camel leather followed, all paired with the high-waist short that is turning out to be a big trend for spring. The colors and textures moved orderly through the spectrum, from nude to black and from shiny and matte. The obvious 1970’s vibe came through in the relaxed fits of the pants and the comfortable, moveable shape of every piece. I saw something for every type of woman, though the sexy Versace shape that the line is notorious for was obvious. The style bar was raised during this show; it is evident that each bold-colored gown in the last ten looks will surely be worn by lovely singers and actresses during the 2008 awards season.

Rounding out my Italian favorites was the collection from Prada, also with a 1970’s inspired presentation. From the gingham prints and piping on the dresses to the interesting flutter sleeves and wraparound collars on blouses, the odd mix made sense. With extremely wide leg pants, tunic sweaters and the colored and patterned tights that Prada is known for, there were a variety of eclectic colors and swirling, artsy prints. With a surprise from every look, there is no denying that Prada is meant for an innovative and forward-looking customer. Hard edges were adorned with soft chiffons, and blinding gold metallic skirts were added to light plaids. Tiny buttons redefined the shapes of long sweaters that would look extraordinary if toned down with jeans; the printed dresses that could add a special something interesting to the office.

While the clothes may be a little out-of-reach, in the “price upon request” zone, daydreaming is always free! I know I promised you Paris, but Milan surprised me first; don’t worry, it’s finally coming next!

--Hayley Umphrey

London FW provides more innovative shapes than New York

Faster than a speeding double-decker bus comes spring 2008 Fashion Week, straight from London. What is London fashion, really, but an eclectic mix of influences from all over the world? While New York may have its sleek, modern lines, London has innovative shapes and a full spectrum of colors. I chose my top three collections from the former site of Fergie’s falling bridge.

Earlier this year, Luella Bartley designed a collection for Target’s GO International line; however, that was only a taste of her delicate knack for piecing things together. Her designs demonstrate outfits using different fabrics and textures, from velvet and taffeta party dresses to fluffy, printed chiffons and cashmere sweaters. Fine prints were evident in blouses, skirts and dresses, but toned down with cream and black basic accents. Each piece was different than the one before it, from a cream-colored wool pea coat to a mint green plaid shift dress. The show also featured high-waist shorts and pleated skirts, shortening the torso but showing just the right amount of leg. A bit of eclectic taste came through with her interesting Batgirl and Batman t-shirts, as well as bat prints on jackets and pants. I’m sure these will be a hot commodity come spring! The Luella line has the possibilities to build a new wardrobe or add special pieces to your existing closet! What better clothes to turn up in for the first day of classes after Easter?

Next on the docket is Matthew Williamson, a London favourite of trendsetters in the States. A performance by Prince opened the extravaganza, which ensured an interesting show to follow, of course. Bohemian shapes and prints on billowing white blouses turned into shimmering metallic tunics as the looks continued on. There were vests and easy, long muumuu dresses, in color combinations and designs resembling those of the Aztecs. In a transition featuring pink to black dip-dyed mini dresses, therein followed an onslaught of blazers and shorts mixed with floaty chiffon pieces. Every edge and detail was taken into consideration, with black and white chevron prints, checkerboards and a warping of the two together. Bold splashes of color in between kept the collection moving. All in all, Matthew Williamson is where to go for the mix of “Pretty Hippie” style with everyday pieces that work. I could see some of his easy dresses traveling well on Spring Break or adding an interesting pop to an outdoor lunch date with friends.

My London eye was then locked on the show from Giles, designed by visionary Giles Deacon. Structured black denim jackets and grey satin dresses started the show, but the shapes quickly became amorphous and interesting. Satins and brocades traipsed past each other; just when I thought I had seen one floral print after another, flowers were stretched out, pixilated and zoomed in on. A strapless satin periwinkle dress stuffed with tightly wrapped tulle is what I’m calling the “cotton candy” dress; hit up http://style.com and see if you agree. I expected the clothes to continue in that style, but everything completely changed again, from the brightest purples to nudes, bronzes and silvers. Laser-sharp trims in the shapes of leaves looked dangerous but were delicately cut from the same shiny satins used earlier. Overall, Giles’ mix of textures is something that must be used in careful moderation. These clothes would be most appropriate where you would want to stand out; perhaps at a gala dinner or awards party, but not your typical black tie!

My heart will always be in New York, but I’m getting well-prepped to look at pictures from the Paris shows next week!

— Hayley Umphrey

Fall fashion tips from Fashion Week

With the end of September around the corner, images of spring 2008 Fashion Week are already feeding the hungry eyes of clothing connoisseurs worldwide. The month-long and beyond “Week” will hit all the major fashion cities; designers from New York, London and Paris will be presenting their wares to a group of elite fashion journalists, stylists, publicists and celebrities. While shows usually run for just under fifteen minutes, the preparation that goes into them is extensive. This is where the trends are created and the innovative new designs come to life! Checking out all the shows on Style.com is a great option for those of us who unfortunately cannot hop on a transcontinental flight because we have our first exams, projects and papers due this week.

The fashion seasons are incredibly forward looking; these dreamy new clothes will not even hit stores until late February. I invite you to think spring for a moment and indulge in outfits from the New York collections that you could be wearing come spring break.

As I noted that fall 2007 fashion was all about juxtaposition of glamorous details with everyday pieces, spring 2008 is all about the airy, fashion-forward dress and ostentatious accessories to match. The industry has seen a rise in femininity over the past few years, as fashion customers are now more interested in playing dress-up for everyday activities. I found the dresses of each collection that I saw this season to be blatantly unique to its designer. Prints and fabric textures were rich, featuring full colors, smooth silks and light chiffons. Few colors or prints were repeated across runways; I sense that spring will be all about the individual personality that the wearer puts into their look.

My first New York favorite is Betsey Johnson; the indisputable queen of the party dress. She appropriately chose a prom theme for her collection, designing a grand variety of short and tea-length (hitting just below the knee) frocks that could catapult any girl into the spotlight. Known for her eye-popping colors and prints, this season was no disappointment as Betsey took tulle layers and giant satin bows to the next level. From delicate dots to sparkling sequins, each piece after the other was innovative and interesting. I can see these adorable dresses making a splash at spring socials and perhaps a certain SPM blog-writer’s 22^nd birthday party!

Transitioning from the flirty and daring to the practical and classic, Donna Karan is next on my list of top New York collections. With the ultimate in effortless chic, she shies away from her famous basic black this season in favor of khaki, moving the concept of the color completely away from men’s Dockers and into mid-length skirts and suit separates. Donna has an incredible way with the female form, designing clothes that are flattering, comfortable and wearable. She did not spare her collection from featuring dresses, which incorporated the same tan and cream colors into a classic shirtwaist style. With a 1950’s flair, distinctive high-waist banding and crisp collars float above a full A-line skirt. This spring look will translate very well into backyard parties and what to wear to summer jobs when the scorching heat is almost too much to bear.

My third most-wanted fashion collection for spring came from Proenza Schouler. Designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez created a smooth transition from fall to spring, most specifically in their incorporation of the menswear vest. These vests added to layers upon layers of interesting patterns and a variety dizzying prints; all adding to surprising combinations. Fabrics invited you to discover what they feel like, while tops of dresses ranged from flattering v-shapes to attention-grabbing asymmetrical sleeves. Some dresses even featured dual rows of big brass buttons down the front, while others screamed for a second look in vividly textured gold and silver metallic. Proenza Schouler makes make matching to mismatch look simple; these well-translating day-to-night outfits will be seen stepping out of classrooms and into VIP sections of nightclubs come spring.

I encourage you to look up the images from the fashion shows and find a designer that strikes your fancy. With so many possible spring looks already fresh from New York, who knows what London fashion week has in store for us across the pond come next week!

— Hayley Umphrey

Temps below 100? Time for fall fashion in Phoenix

As 100-degree temperatures continue, our favorite stores are filling up with belted jackets, cozy sweaters and crisp trouser pants. Before you find yourself going naked under your new knee-length wool pea coat — because you are desperate to show off the snazzy fall staple — I’m here to help you work the upcoming season’s trends into your Arizona wardrobe.

Simply put, this season is all about looking fancy! Fall 2007 is reinventing the tuxedo and creating pulled-together looks through the use of refined vests, pants and blazers. Button detailing as well as plaids, stripes and solids allow for a variety of combination options. It is essential to take the vest or jacket out of context to dress for the heat. Pair pieces with a pretty short skirt or a simple V-neck T-shirt and jeans.

Bold, bright jewel-tone colors will carry over from winter, but the focus will shift from satiny party tops to an emphasis on tie-neck blouses, drop-waist dresses, prim gloves and sexy shoes. Matching your accessories to your shoes, no matter if they are fuchsia or bright yellow, is a great way to achieve that polished look. The blouses and dresses are likely still on the way to stores, so incorporate vivid shades into your accessories for your existing minidresses and tunic tops: the staples of ASU’s scantily clad nightlife scene.

Also for nighttime looks, the sparkly detailing of black beads on dress bodices and trims on clutches can make single pieces easily incorporated into other basic-black styles. Black opaque tights will be a trend again this season, but stay cool and continue to rock leggings or footless tights for now.

Accessories can be Arizona-climate conscious and are all about keeping it interesting. Baubles and beads with that extra flash make your put-together outfit much more worthy of a second look. From wood to feathers to crocodile (keep it faux), the possibilities for discovering new textures are infinite. Plastic bangles in interesting shapes and colors will draw attention to the adorable clutch you’re holding, now appearing in larger and more useful sizes for fall. Felt hats and 1920’s style caps will cover up a bad hair day and give your look with some extra pizzazz. Don’t get rid of your headbands or high waist belts yet. These extra touches will make all the difference come fall.

Hopefully you didn’t dress yourself top to bottom in the fall trends to realize that you’re still rocking brown Rainbow flip flops. When your feet feel ready to finish off the look, aim for the classic round-toe pump. In patent leather, lace-up spectator style or elegant satin, clip-clopping around in some fancy shoes is what makes me really feel like it is finally fall.

I’ll keep you updated next week with a sneak preview of spring 2008 Fashion Week trends as the show clips continue to roll in. My take on fall boots and coats will be coming soon; until then, focus on one trend you like, and start to show off your fashion-forward fall style.

— Hayley Umphrey

Taking a trip? Don't take a vacation from high fashion.

I know I promised a how-to on planning a thrift store prom party in my last post, but I’ve decided to save that and my other costume party plans for the week of Halloween.

With Labor Day weekend having just been completed, whether you traveled to Las Vegas or just hit up Casino Arizona, it’s always important to know how to travel in style AND fit everything in your suitcase. With this end-of-summer getaway holiday just over, I figured this would be a good time to give you my tips.

Packing is most difficult if you do it minutes before you leave, so start piling things up at least one day beforehand. This will prevent you from forgetting obvious things like socks and underwear, unless of course, you’re going to a place where you won’t need one or both of those. Once you’ve got the essentials taken care of, you can focus on the stylish pieces that will carry your wardrobe from “camping with Uncle Joe” to “on a rendezvous with Justin Timberlake.”

Co-ordination is crucial to extraordinary vacation attire. Far too often people assume that comfort should triumph above the generally accepted fashion principles — this is not the case! Take along your favorite clothes, as well as those you want to be seen and photographed in. A picture is worth a thousand words, and that memory can last a lifetime, especially if it is posted on Facebook.com. You can be whomever you want on your trip, so mix and match pieces with accessories that will take your everyday apparel to a sultry “What happens here, stays here” look.

Failing to check the forecast is right up there with wearing socks with your sandals in terms of huge fashion mistakes. Indoor-to-outdoor and day-to-night temperatures will vary significantly; I recommend packing an outfit that will carry you through a cooler night but can still pass for both casual and evening wear. Also take into consideration the activities you’ll be partaking in on your trip; is a dinner jacket necessary for a planned lobster dinner or can you just pack a plaid shirt for cooking hotdogs over an open fire? Be sure to plan for any special situations that may come up on your trip; it’s always better to be overdressed than underdressed (just don’t wear your dinner jacket to the campfire).

I am notorious for taking just one carry-on suitcase for a week-long trip. The best way to save space is to fold jeans and pants, but tightly roll T-shirts and tanks. Put your shoes in the bottom corners of bags and stuff them with said rolled-up tops. This will save space and also keep your shoes from losing their shape. My best-kept secret is to fold dresses, skirts and sweaters in pieces of tissue paper to prevent them from wrinkling. I refuse to iron while on vacation! Everything will probably be packed pretty tight, but stuff socks, underwear and swimsuits (once again, all optional) in the corners and pockets.

So those are the key steps to ensuring a fashionable weekend away. One more tip, now that the holiday is over: Forget the old adage; you can wear white shoes after Labor Day. Just make sure they are spotlessly clean.

— Hayley Umphrey